(Photo - The Isle de Mogador)

Dear All, I am leaving Essaouira for the summer. The blog will start again when I return in the fall. Take care, have fun and see you then.

The Best of Essaouira

Here is my list of bests in Essaouira. We have a wonderful city with so many cool things to see and do so come and enjoy.

Best Cafe - Cafe De France

There is no better way to start you day in our beautiful city than with a hot coffee. Where to get your coffee is obvious, if you're a local you go to the Cafe De France. Many Moroccans consider the oldest the best, and the CDF is by far the oldest cafe in the Place.

Best Pain au Chocolate - Maison Gourmand

Most people say that the Pain at the Maison Gourmand is the best. I tend to agree, but it's a bit far away and they charge 3 per pain. You can also get them on the street that goes to Bab Marrakesh for 1 DH, but they are a bit dry. The best place in the Medina? I think the best all around value is at the little bakery directly across from the Hotel Cap Sim. It's near the Place, just walk past Jacks Real Estate Office, turn left up the alley and the bakery is on your right. Go early because they sell out by 10AM. Arrive by 9 and you get a nice warm Pain au Chocolate for 1.5 DH. Buy a couple and get on over to the Cafe De France.

Best Restaurant - Elizir

The first thing that strikes you when you enter the restaurant is the incredible 70's mod style. White and red plastic dining sets are mixed with large globe ceiling lamps and colorful Moroccan fabrics. The ambiance is a delight for the senses and the food is just as good.

I first met the owner Latif about 5 years ago when he worked in an antique store in the Bab Sba Square. The place was filled with amazing wonders from old French mirrors to ancient coins to 7O's retro furniture. He would play good music and really make you feel welcome. I would spend hours there with my girlfriend hanging out, having tea and looking at all the cool stuff. Every once in a while you would ask about a particular piece and Latif would smile and say, "I am sorry, that is not for sale."

Elizir is now filled with his great collection. The Restaurant has now been open for a year and is one of the most popular spots in Essaouira because of the great interior and great food.

Your meal starts with warm bread and a great platter with a variety of tasty treats like baby cherry tomatoes, whipped cheese and whipped olives. The appetizers are excellent. Definitely go for one of the two gnochis, cheese or pumpkin. For the main course I love the steak, but they also have really tasty tagines including fish, veal, chicken and camel. You can BYOB or order wine.

Truly a great dining experience. Elizir is located at 1 rue de Adadir, the first door on the left when you turn from Main Street.

Best Bar - The True

The Tru (hole)

I hate to admit it, but the Tru is my favorite bar in town. This is a real, authentic, down to earth, dive bar that dates back to the late 1800's. A few years ago at Shakespeare and Company in Paris, I came across an old book that actually mentioned the Tru. It went something like, "I spent a few days in Mogador and while I was there I enjoyed many a bottle of local wine at a little bar hidden under the Mechouar Hotel."

I thought that was pretty cool, I need to get the title of that book. Anyway, it's a seedy local dive and is filled with all kinds of interesting riff raff. In my opinion, it is the perfect place to take a girl on a first date because if she can handle to toilet at the Tru, you are with one cool chick and set for life.

The Tru is located behind the Mechouar Hotel which is directly across from the Clock Tower. Facing the Hotel, look to the right and there is an alley that is just past the Hotel Sahara. Go under the big arch to the end, turn left and the bar is the last door on you left. Drinks start at 12 Dirham.

If you are looking for a night club then Taros is best from 9 to Midnight and after that go to Il Mare. Both have live music and scenes.

Beach Bar is the best place in Essaouira to go for a nice afternoon beer and watch the tide change. It has a great view of Essaouira beach, the port and there is always a good football match on Sunday Afternoon.

Best Beach Walks

Essaouira is surrounded by beautiful beaches, Safi Beach to the north and Essaouira Plage to the south. This week I took advantage of the low tides from the full moon and took two grand excursions traversing the length of both beaches. For both of these trips you can either cycle or walk.

My first big adventure was the ride down Safi Beach to Moulay Bouzerktoun. I estimate the distance on the Beach to be at about 14KM. This hike begins at the end of the main auto route. You go over the little hill on to Safi Beach and the directions are easy from there, just follow the beach. I was able to ride my bike the first 13KM, unbelievably pristine virgin beach. I only passed one person the whole way down. For the last KM, you can walk on the rocks or there is a road that is up from the beach a bit.

On my bike it took me 1.5 hours to get to Moulay and then 2 hours to return on the auto route (29KM). To walk should take about 4-5 hours. Bring lots of water and don't worry. Moulay is a tiny town, but it does have bus service back to Essaouira.

The hike down Essaouira beach to Cap Sim is a bit shorter but just as fantastic. After crossing the River Ksab you make your way past the Castle in the Sand and from there the beach stretches all the way to the light house. On the way you pass a couple little fisherman villages remind you that people still happy to live out in the sticks. They always wave when I pass and seem quite content.

The beach ends when to get past the lighthouse, but it easy to find the trail. Keep following along the coast and you will arrive at "The Cave" which is a very popular surf spot. From there you follow the trail inland to the main highway or continue along the coast to Sidi Kaouki.

This was quite a difficult ride because I had to carry my bicycle for at least a few KM's over the rocks. This is a much easier hike that will take about 4 hours. Take the bus back from Sidi Kaouki.

Best Surf Spot

Safi Beach is my favorite. You must surf it early in the morning before the wind comes up; say by 7AM latest. There are two spots, the first is a left that breaks in front of the old factory and the second is down the beach past the end of the rocks. If the surf is over 6 feet Safi gets too big and you will have to surf in the bay down by the lighthouse.

News:

New Dollar Store Opens in Borj - Well a 10DH store anyway. It is located directly across the street from Super Market Fath and really has a interesting stock. Lots of great deals on plates and glasses, and even has some interesting furniture. The toy section must be really good because it was too crowded to make it down that aisle.

Weather - This week will be windy and warm. There will be good waves in the bay but because of the wind you will have to surf very early the morning. It will be a perfect week for kite and windsurfing.

Check the surf in Essaouira:

http://www.windguru.com/int/index.php?sc=26

Check the Weather in Essaouira:

http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=essaouira

 

Next Week: Delights of Essaouira

Current Events:

The Alliance Francoise is hosting the exposition "TRAMES DE SABLE" from June 2 to the 26. The opening reception will be on June 2nd at 7:00PM

For full information and a schedule of events go to the Alliance Francoise website at:

http://www.ambafrance-ma.org/institut/afm-essaouira/index.cfm?num=948&archive...

The Alliance Francoise is located on Rue Laalouj not far from Dar Suki.

Upcoming Events

10th Annual Essaouira International Gnaoua Festival 2007 June 19 - 23. For all information go to the official websight at:

http://www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma/

Blog Posted each Monday by Ron Bauer, see you soon!

If you have any questions or comments contact me at ronny_bauer@yahoo.com

(Photo - Full moon rising from terrace of Dar Suki)

 

Full Moon Over Essaouira

 

This Friday night, June 1st, will be a very special evening in Essaouira where will have the sunset and the full moon rising at exactly the same time, just around 7:40PM. This moon name is the "Strawberry" moon and will rise from the mountains just as the sun sets. Because of the wind, the sky should be exceptionally clear so find a great place, bring your camera and a warm jacket. The terrace at Dar Suki is the perfect place because you can see both at sunset and moon rise at the same time. There are many other places around the city that work well, the sea wall at the end of the port is probably the best place but it is extra windy there so dress warm. On June 30th the "Blue Moon" will rise over Essaouira which is a rare event. The Blue Moon Signifies that is is the second full moon in one month. Have a great week and be sure to have a nice full moon party!

 

 

Other News:

 

The 151 room Ibus Hotel being built next to the Africa station is already having an affect on the neighborhood. Just across the street apartments are popping up everywhere and some say they are starting at 50,000 euros for 2 bedroom with one bath. This could make it the most expensive and popular area in the new city surpassing the Borj where you can still get an apartment for around 30,000 euros.

 

Weather - This week will be windy and warm. There will be good waves in the bay but because of the wind you will have to surf very early the morning. It will be a perfect week for kite and windsurfing.

 

Check the surf in Essaouira:

 

http://www.windguru.com/int/index.php?sc=26

 

Check the Weather in Essaouira:

 

http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=essaouira

 

 

Next Week: Delights of Essaouira

 

 

Current Events:

 

The Alliance Francoise is hosting the exposition "TRAMES DE SABLE" from June 2 to the 26. The opening reception will be on June 2nd at 7:00PM

 

The alliance is also hosting the International Festival of Animation June 1-3. All films will be shown at the Alliance and the schedule should be posted the day before the event.

 

For full information and a schedule of events go to the Alliance Francoise website at:

 

http://www.ambafrance-ma.org/institut/afm-essaouira/index.cfm?num=948&archives=1&motcle=28

 

The Alliance Francoise is located on Rue Laalouj not far from Dar Suki.

 

 

Upcoming Events

 

10th Annual Essaouira International Gnaoua Festival 2007 June 19 - 23. For all information go to the official websight at:

 

http://www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma/

 

Blog Posted each Monday by Ron Bauer, see you soon!

 

If you have any questions or comments contact me at ronny_bauer@yahoo.com

(Photo - The Bold House Bunting)

Birds of Essaouira

Essaouira is a wonderful place to bird watch and spring is the best time of year. There are many great places for bird watching in and round the city. You can see lots of birds from Essaouira Beach, Safi Beach and in the trees near the Bab Sba, but the best place, by far, is around the Ksab River in the early morning.

With the old Sultan's Palace as a backdrop, the River Ksab is a wonderfully scenic place to spend the morning. And with so many birds, and so much wildlife, it's really something not to miss while visiting Essaouira.

By far the most common bird in Essaouira is the Sea Gull. They circle the city day and night searching for food. My old Essaouira friend Chris Gilmore used to tell me that the gulls need to eat 10 time their weight in fish everyday just to fly. There is plenty of free space in the Isle de Mogador for nesting but many gulls still chose to nest on isolated roofs in the Medina. The chicks have just hatched and from the terrace of Dar Suki I can spot over 5 baby gulls. This can be a problem for residents because the birds get really loud and charge at you if you get too close.

The most famous bird in our area is the Eleonora’s Falcon that nests on Mogador. You can see them in the morning on the beach down by the lighthouse. I see them all day long near the river Ksab that flows to the sea near the castle in the sand.

The other morning I was surfing and saw over 9 of the falcons crossing over from the island to the mainland. The do not fish but feed on insects and smaller birds. They are a small predator, only about 30 - 40 CM long with a black tail and a white throat.

The falcons come to breed on Mogador and in the Canary Islands before making their return journey to Madagascar. The websight www.africanbirdclub.org says that the islets off Essaouira hold by far the world’s largest colony of Eleonora’s Falcons.

The House Bunting is my favorite bird in Morocco (see photo above). At least two of the little guys visit my apartment everyday. They fly right in my window and eat the bread crumbs from under my table. They are very bold and don't mind at all if I'm home. It's almost like having pets, except for the fact that these little buddies clean up after me!

There are also many other birds you can see around the city including Pink Flamingos, various species of Ducks, Morning Doves, Cormorants, Great Blue Herons, Snowy Egret and many many species of Sea Gulls.

The best Morocco birdwatching websight I can find is www.africanbirdclub.org which lists all of the species located in the country.

Other News:

May 16 marked the 4 year anniversary of the Casablanca bombings and to commemorate that terrible day the students of Essaouira held a march against terrorism. The march started in the Administrative Quarter near the Ocean Vagabond and made it's way to the Place Moulay Hassan. Over 1000 students and civic leaders attended the rally and ceremony in the Place.

 

Weather - It will be sunny and warm all week with big waves in the bay. Surf in the morning, windsurf in the afternoon.

Check the surf in Essaouira:

http://www.windguru.com/int/index.php?sc=26

Check the Weather in Essaouira:

http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=essaouira

 

Next Week: Best of Essaouira

 

Current Events:

The Alliance Francoise is hosting the exposition «From A to Z» by AHMED LEKHAL from May 5 - 19. He is from Oujda and uses lots of natural materials in his art ranging from Arabic symbols to floral calligraphy.

For full information and a schedule of events go to the Alliance Francoise website at:

http://www.ambafrance-ma.org/institut/afm-essaouira/index.cfm?num=948&archive...

The Alliance Francoise is located on Rue Laalouj not far from Dar Suki.

Upcoming Events

10th Annual Essaouira International Gnaoua Festival 2007 June 19 - 23. For all information go to the official websight at:

http://www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma/

Blog Posted each Monday by Ron Bauer, see you soon!

If you have any questions or comments contact me at ronny_bauer@yahoo.com