It's really unbelievable the number of construction projects that are currently underway in Essaouira. You can usually tell the vitality of a city by the number of civic improvements that are happening and many of the projects are just that.
First of all, Essaouira is completely rebuilding its sewage system.
It used to be that Essaouira pumped its raw sewage directly into the sea at the end of town near Safi Beach. This was extremely environmentally unfriendly and also a problem for surfers like me. If there was a south wind, the sewage was blown directly onto Safi Beach making it unsafe for surfers and beach goers alike. Safi beach is really pristine, 14 KM of virgin shoreline that runs all the way to Moulay Bouzerktoun.
Now the new system is almost complete, but I'm not sure where the sewage will be redirected or if it will be treated. I am sure that they are not currently pumping the sewage through the old pipe and that is a step in the right direction. As with most things in Essaouira, no one can tell me exactly what is going on.
At the same time as fixing the sewage system, they are also building a new road, or at least a piste, at Safi Beach. This is really exciting, but I can't find out exactly how the road will be used. Currently the new dirt road starts at the end of the main auto route and goes about a half of a kilometer behind the dunes that line the beach. They have 2 big dump drucks moving sand and the road extends a little farther north everyday.
I figure they are either building a new Trash Dump or they are actually planning the much sought after beach road to Moulay Bouzerktoun. I have a feeling that it has to do with trash or the sewage system. If it really turns out to be a road and they are putting houses out there, wow, this is prime real estate and could really shake up the booming Essaouira real estate market.
Speaking of real estate, Essaouira is going crazy. I think that the average price of an apartment in the Medina has doubled over the last 5 years. There are also a multitude of new apartments being built outside the medina.
First of all, we have the new luxury condominiums next to the Cafe Mogador on Essaouira Beach. These have just been completed and the starting price for a two bedroom is over 1,000,000 Dirham. The high end apartments with an ocean view are starting at 3.5 Million Dirham. There are also the new condos being built in and around the Bab Doukala. The starting price for a two bedroom there is listed at 278,000 Dirham. And, there is the entire new quarter being built near Safi Beach and these units will be priced in the 200,000 to 300,000 dirham range.
This is really amazing to me. It seems like most of the new construction is being built for foreigners. I really don't think the average Moroccan can afford these places. There is an emerging middle class here, but I think even they might have a problem with the rising prices.
What is happening is that families are selling their places in the medina and buying new places in the new city with lots of Dirhams to spare. I think this will continue and that over time the medina will be almost completely foreign owned. What can I say; I'm also currently trying to buy a place to further the trend.
By far the most impressive current civic improvement to Essaouira is the construction of a 1000 seat sports arena just behind the Sofitel (see photo above). I find this almost unbelievable.
The funny thing about the arena is that no one in town is talking about it. To me this is a big deal. I wouldn't even know about it, but I happed to ride my bike down the street and there it was, almost half complete.
The first thing that came to my mind is exactly who will play there. Of course, I have asked around town and no one knows for sure. Sidi Mohammed the waiter at the Cafe de France says maybe basketball but he is not sure. Even the "King of the Cafe" has no idea about the project
Even more astonishing is that the field in the arena seems too small for football. What other sport could it possibly host? It is the perfect size for tennis, handball or volleyball but these sports don't seem to be so popular in Morocco. Essaouira does have a semi-pro basketball team, so I guess it must be for them. I'm quite stumped; I will have to continue to ask around.
Yes, Essaouira is really booming. I don't even have to mention the crazy Essaouira/Mogador project, the new Royal Air Maroc Beachfront Hotel, the new Ocean Vagabond Hotel or the new luxury hotel that is being built next to the Sofitel.
The place is going wild and I'm glad that I am here to witness the changes. Now if I could only find an apartment that I can afford.